Islamic Heritage of Turkey Extended Study led by Omid Safi Colgate University summer 2006

This is a term long reading course, culminating in a three-week study tour in Turkey. The reading course focuses on medieval and contemporary understandings of Islam in Turkey, paying particularly close attention to the manifestations of Islamic Mysticism (Sufism) in Turkey. The study tour will focus on the city of Istanbul (ancient Constantinople), considered among the most impressive and beautiful of ancient cities, and a meeting place of East and West. During the time in Istanbul, prominent Turkish scholars of Islam and Islamic history will give lectures to the class. The tour will culminate in a visit to the sacred pilgrimage site of Konya, the burial place of the much-revered Rumi. No knowledge of Turkish is necessary. We will also visit Ankara (Turkey's capital), and Ephesus (which is an ancient Christian center). To honor Turkey's multi-religious history, we will visit the house of the Virgin Mary, a pilgrimage center for Muslims and Christians.

Prerequisite: It is strongly suggested that the students have completed at least one course dealing with the Islamic tradition before taking this class. Permission of the instructor is required.

-The class will be run in a seminar format. Fully 35% of the students' grades will be determined from their participation in class discussions during the reading course and also their participation and respect for the parameters of the study tour while in Turkey.
-Every day for class, the students are expected to come with a 2 page typed reflection and analysis of the readings. The analysis is to raise critical questions about the readings, and make connections with earlier readings and class discussions. It is to culminate with a series of questions (referring specifically to the text) that can be raised in class for further discussions. These reflections will be gathered by the instructor and graded.

-Each student is also expected to write a research paper for the class. The topics will be worked out individually with the students. Each paper is to be 15-20 pages long, and should use scholarly sources recommended by the instructor. The paper will count for 50% of the grade for the course.

-In addition, upon returning from the trip, each student will write a paper that will weave together their readings, critical analysis, and personal reflections on the trip. This paper will count for 15% of the grade.

The same book is also published under a different title: Rumi's World : The Life and Works of the Greatest Sufi Poet, ISBN: 0877736111

Wednesday January 25th, at 7 pm, 202 Hascall: intro to Sufism, overview of the trip.

Wednesday, February 1st, at 7 pm, 202 Hascall: Annemarie Schimmel, Mystical Dimensions of Islam [chapters 1, 2, 3]

Wednesday, February 8th, Annemarie Schimmel, Mystical Dimensions of Islam [chapters 4, 5, 7, Appendix 2. Browse chapter 6.]

Wednesday, February 15th, No class. Pursue your research project, and post comments on blackboard..

Wednesday, Febraury 22nd, Shems Friedlander, When you Hear Hoofbeats, think of a zebra

Tuesday, April 18th: Mandatory Lecture at 4:15, by Professor Shahab Ahmed of Harvard University. Location: 105 Lawrence.

Wednesday, April 19th, last day of class. Check with Omid to see if we are meeting at his house or in the regular classroom.

After the extensive preparation above, those students who have successfully completed the reading section of the class will be invited for a three-week study tour of Turkey. Ideally, the number of students on the tour would be 20. The tour would begin on May 28th, and conclude three weeks after that on June 18th. The study tour would begin from New York, where the instructor would accompany the students to Turkey. At the conclusion of the study tour, the students would be free to spend more time on their own (their budget) in Turkey or other European or Middle Eastern countries if they have made the necessary arrangements.

The study tour would be based primarily in Istanbul. What follows is a tentative itinerary for the trip:

Itinerary for Turkey Extended Study

28 May: Depart the US (JFK airport)

29 May: Arrival in Istanbul

Arrival transfer from the airport to the hotel. Overnight at the hotel in Istanbul

30 May Istanbul (breakfast included)

Full day sightseeing tour of Istanbul including visits to Hippodrome, the place chariot races and competitive athletic events took place during the Roman period, then the Blue Mosque which is a 17th century Ottoman Mosque famous with its six minarets and magnificent interior with blue tiles.

31 May: Istanbul (breakfast included)

Full day tour of Dolmabahce Palace Palace - the rococo 19th century residence of the Ottoman sultans and the place where the founder of Modern Turkey, Ataturk died in 1938. The Dolmabahce Palace is beautifully situated with a 600m frontage on the Bosphorus.

01 June: Istanbul (breakfast included)

Full day tour of Istanbul including visits to the famous Spice market, cruise by ferry which crosses the Bosphorus. The cruise terminates at the fishing village of Sarıyer close to the Black Sea. Continue to the Sabancı Museum.

02 June: Istanbul (breakfast included)

Turkish & Islamic Arts Museum, a great collection of artifacts from many civilizations of Anatolia, St. Sophia, the great Byzantine Basilica built in the 6th century. Rest of day at leisure.

03 June: Istanbul (breakfast included)

Day at leisure. Afternoon visit to the Grand Bazaar, famous shopping center offering shopping opportunities for carpets, jewelry, leather, etc.

04 June: Istanbul – Ankara (breakfast included)

Depart Istanbul for Ankara. Upon late afternoon arrival in Ankara, visit the Anatolian Civilizations Museum and view numerous finds from Paleolithic Age, Neolithic Age, Hittites, Urartians, Phrygians and many others.

05 June: Ankara – Cappadocia (Breakfast, Dinner included)

En route to Cappadocia visit the Mausoleum of Atatürk, the burial place of the national hero who founded the modern Turkish Republic. After a picturesque trip along the Salt Lake visit to the 13th century Seljukian Caravanseri Ağzıkarahan.

06 June: Cappadocia (B, D)

Visit to the fortress in Uçhisar and view the Cappadocia region, proceed to the open air museum through Göreme Valley. Visit to the early Christian churches decorated with unique frescoes depicting various scenes from the Bible. Visit to Zelve and Avanos.

07 June: Cappadocia (Breakfast, Dinner included)

Drive to Kaymaklı to visit the Underground City, the place early Christians hid from Arabic persecutors.

08 June: Cappadocia – Konya (B, D)

Transfer to Konya..At night , go to the Mosque of Shems-e-Tabrizi.

09 June: Konya (Breakfast, Dinner)

Visit the Mausoleum of Mevlana and proceed to the Karatay Theological School.

10 June: Konya - Pamukkale. (Breakfast, Dinner)

In the early morning, quick visit back to the Mevlana Museum. Depart for Pamukkale

11 June: Pamukkale – Kusadasi (Breakfast, Dinner)

Visit the fascinating archaeological site of Hierapolis, the thermal resort founded by a Pergamene King in 190 BC and greatly enlarged and embellished by the Romans. Continue to Izmir. Dinner and overnight at the hotel in Kusadasi

12 June: Kusadasi – Istanbul (Breakfast)

Visit Ephesus, home of the Greek Philosopher Heraclitus , the amphitheaters, the marble road, library of Celsus, temple of Hadrian, the Odeon, the museum of Selcuk and the house of Virgin Mary. Transfer to Izmir airport for an evening flight to Istanbul. Arrival in Istanbul and transfer to hotel.

13 June: Istanbul (Breakfast)

Full day tour of Istanbul including visits to the St.Chora museum, the 11th century church of St. Saviour in Chora is, after St. Sophia, the most important Byzantine monument in Istanbul. The walls are decorated with superb 14th century frescoes and mosaics on a gold background. These influenced the European Renaissance. The church is a remarkable museum of Byzantine art. Here you will find a quiet, carefully tended garden facing old wooden houses, where you can enjoy tea or coffee. Continue to the Mosque of Suleyman the Magnificent, where he and his wife, Hurrem Sultan (Roxelane), are buried, is considered the most beautiful of all imperial mosques in Istanbul.

14 June: Istanbul (Breakfast)

Full day tour of Istanbul including visits to the Topkapı Palace residence of the Ottoman sultans between the 15th and 19th centuries. The jeweled turban crests, silken caftans and priceless Chinese porcelains of the palace bear witness to the grandeur of a bygone era. The porcelain collection is considered the finest anywhere outside China. Continue to the Archeological museum which was founded by painter and archeologist Osman Hamdi on June 13, 1891. Continue to the Archeological Museum which was founded by painter and archeologist Osman Hamdi on June 13, 1891.

15 June; Istanbul (Breakfast)

Visit the Ahrida Synagogue, Church of Paamakaritros and Greek Orthodox Patriarche, if permitted.

16 June: Istanbul (Breakfast)

Day at leisure. Archeological Museum which was founded by painter and archeologist Osman Hamdi on June 13, 1891. [No transportation needed.]

17 June: Istanbul (Breakfast)

Day at leisure.

18 June: Return to US (Breakfast )

Departure transfer from hotel to airport

More items to fit in:

*Visit to Mevlana Galatasarai for Whirling Dervishes show.

*One Turkish bath for the whole group (separate for men and women)

*Monday or Thursday night visit to Jerrahi Dergah.

Lectures, insha'allah!

* Lecture by Sherif Catalkaya on practices of Islamic mysticism
*Observe women's spiritual gathering at the guidance of Cemalnur Sargut
*Arrange for Sufi music concert, led by Oruc Guvenc (Turkish musician, knowledgeable about theories of Turkish music and its connections to Islamic spirituality).
*Music concert by Latif Bolat
*Lecture by Bilal Kuspinar
*Lecture by Ibrahim Kalin
*Lecture by Mahmud Kilic
*Lecture by Melis Seyhun
*Lecture/documentary by Shems Friedlander
*Lecture by Hava Guney

Accommodations in Turkey:
In Istanbul, we will stay in the following two hotels. Both are considered among historical hotels, in the delightful Sultanahmet neighborhood. You'll be about a one minute walk away from the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Mosque) and a two minute walk from the Aya Sophia.

“ To open a hotel of this category in Sultanahmet where there were plenty of hotels , was something that needed courage... But the bet was won. There is everything
to please you at Istanbul Hotel Sari Konak…"
Guide du Routard Istanbul Turkey

" This converted Ottoman mansion is one of the most attractive small hotels in Sultanahmet "
Eyewitness Travel Guides - Istanbul Turkey

" If Topkapi Palace has gems , among the small Istanbul hotels, Sari Konak Hotel is as precious ..."
The Weekend Australian

"...Next time , I'm convinced that I 'll come here first ..."
Frommers Travel Guide Turkey

"The dedicated service afforded by the Okan Family and the hotel staff creates a most
welcoming atmosphere and their attention to even the smallest detail is evident
throughout this small Istanbul hotel..."
Johansens Recommended Hotels 2000

In Cappadocia, we'll stay in hotel Peri Tower.
This hotel is considered an intriguing architectural example of modern Turkish art,
drawing on ancient Cappadocian themes.
for one example of images, Hotel Peri Tower

US citizens can obtain a visa immediately upon arrival in the Istanbul airport, for a cost of about $40 cash. s
Make sure that your passport is up to date, and valid.

Here are the standards for each grade:

A
Superb, Excellent. An ability to offer original and insightful analysis of the facts.

B
Solid Work. The facts have been grasped, and significant moves have been made to interpret the material in an analytical fashion.

C
The student has made a reasonable attempt to attend the class, and has a fair grasp of the factual material presented. The analysis of these facts, and an attempt to contribute towards an original interpretation, however, is severely missing.

D
A simplistic familiarity with the subject mater can be gleamed through the assignments which have been turned in.

F
A disappointment—no attempt being shown on the behalf of the student to engage the material, to respect the parameters of the class and its schedule, or the turning in of assignment.

This course can only be successful if we have daily, active discussions. That will only happen if you have spent time before coming to class pondering over the readings. To aid you in this, you are are asked to bring a focused "talking point" (around 3-4 pages) to every class. A talking point is a form of dialogue between you and the readings: that is to say, reflections and queries you are prepared to share with a classmate and/or with the instructor. Your daily "talking points" will play a considerable role in shaping the day's discussion. Every talking point must contain 2-3 written questions to be asked in class. The talking points, which will be first exchanged with your colleagues and then gathered by me, count for 20% of your final grade.

I leave it up to you to decide how you will engage the text in your talking point:

*reflect on an idea you found interesting or intriguing in the readings,
*discuss who the various readings complement or differ from one another,
*explore the implications of a particular idea,
*compare to another work we've studied,
*trace how the work speaks to a theme we encountered earlier.

	The Sultanahmet neighborhood is close to almost all the historical sights in the European section of Istanbul, including Topkapi palace, Aya Sophia, Blue Mosque, Grand Bazar, Suleymaniye mosque, etc.
	Our stay will, insha'allah, be in the shadow of the Blue mosque (Sultanahmet Camii), and very close to the Aya Sophia.


Door to the Sari Konak	Roof view from Avicenna Hotel


View from the roof of Sari Konak


Charming Garden of the Sari Konak